Glacier National Park — August 8 to August 11

by | Aug 21, 2017 | Travel 2017 | 197 comments

Glacier National Park — August 8 to August 11

We arrived at Glacier National Park through the East Entrance and found our site in St. Mary’s Campground — nothing extremely remarkable, but comfortable. We disconnected the truck from the trailer for maximum flexibility and also because with it attached, we were prohibited by Park rules from taking our priority drive, the Going to the Sun Road.

We spent the next two days exploring the park pursuing the Going to the Sun Road on our arrival day. Once again, Fran found enjoyment and challenge and Nancy put additional fingerprints in the Ford’s arm rests. The sheer drops off the side of the road created something close to sheer terror to the Van Huffel gene pool. The road was often one lane, at least it was supposed to be. We once again pulled in the mirrors and left them in for the duration of the road – out and back. One of the challenging elements was the jutting rocks on the passenger side as we drove up – they were uneven and often unexpected. Certainly made squeezing by another on-coming vehicle without scratching your vehicle an interesting maneuver. The return trip was not as harrowing except for Nancy, who had to view the shear drop on the passenger side!

The next day we drove a small portion of the Inside Northern Loop and most of the Outside Northern Loop. The Inside Loop is gravel and we were pretty much alone thereby once again evoking the protective Van Huffel flight response. Once back on the Outside Loop, we had the expected amount of road-sharing colleagues…and a paved road.

We came upon a great find almost at the top of the Outside Loop – The Home Ranch Bottoms. A small, family owned restaurant, watering hole, and occasional entertainment venue. Nancy, Paddington, and I sat on the front porch and enjoyed homemade Huckleberry Pie and a small sandwich. (Nancy’s very first Huckleberries!) The air was clear, the sun perfectly warm without being hot, and the sounds were only those of the nearby forest. A wonderful respite from traveling and driving…and…the absolutely best Huckleberry Pie we had on our trip!

On our third day in the Park, we explored both Road to the Chief and Many Glaciers. We first drove to Many Glaciers only to find the rangers turning cars away midway up due to traffic congestion at the Lodge. At the ranger’s suggestion, we drove the Road to the Chief and then returned to Many Glaciers in the late afternoon after the crowd had thinned out. Both trips were well worth the travel and the hassle.

It appears that Glacier experienced a huge and unexpected influx of visitors far exceeding even the increases of 2016. In fact, in the month of July, the Park received one million visitors, the first time that many folks had visited in one month in the Park’s history. It was clear that systems and staff were over-whelmed and there was no pre-determined plan to handle the crowds. Clearly, the Park needs to take the same approach as Yosemite and limit the number of visitors to the Park. If they don’t, the Park will be over-run and destroyed and the visitor experience severely diminished.

Even though visibility was not the best due to the smoke and haze in the air, the Chief was impressive and unexpected, as we never intended to take the drive initially. However, we were very glad we did.

Many Glaciers, the Lodge, and the lake on which the Lodge is located are spectacular! Definitely a sight and experience not to be missed when visiting Glacier. The Lodge is reminiscent of the old Park lodges much like the Awanee in Yosemite – an aging and bit run-down elegance you can feel as you walk through.

What is also evident is the rapidly shrinking glaciers that originally gave the location its name. One can only imagine what the sight must have been fifty years ago or more when the site was chosen for the Lodge and the glaciers, now mere shadows of themselves, were in their full glory.
It is the site of the Lodge that creates the traffic jam and parking lot clog from too many visitors. The road up is in less than stellar condition and is very narrow in places. Once at the Lodge, the parking lot is small and the ability to maneuver any but the smallest vehicle very limited. Clearly, the site and the Lodge were never intended to host the hordes that now visit in the summer.

On our way back from Many Glaciers the first time, we stopped by the side of the road where there was easier access to the lake. This gave Paddington another chance to play in the icy water and to further overcome his fear of water, which is rapidly disappearing! We piled him back into the truck dirty, soggy, and happy. Thank Goodness for removable seat covers!

This ended our successful and somewhat sad visit to Glacier. We enjoyed and were awed by the vistas and the beauty; and saddened by the impact of both climate change and the hordes of visitors from around the world. Glacier is a national treasure that must be protected.

 

 

 

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