Cody to Custer – July 26 to 28
We reluctantly left Cody and headed toward Newcastle, to stage our arrival in Custer. The drive from Cody to our campground took us to almost 10,000 feet in elevation as we chugged over and through the Big Horn Mountains. What a fascinating drive! At times it felt like the high Sierras and other times it was easy to imagine we were crossing the Swiss Alps. In either case, we were at the top of the world. Absolutely stunning! The road was often narrow and winding with sharp switchbacks and shear drops without railings. Needless to say, Nancy did not breathe for several miles.
We encountered horseback riders, hikers, and cattle on the road. The horseback riders were cowboys and cowgirls doing their normal work. The cows were simply happy occupants of open range. And the hikers were deliriously nuts – those seeking wilderness, unspoiled vistas, and solitude, of which there are plenty in those mountains. However, several backpackers a year go missing in the Big Horns!
Our first night was at Conner Battlefield State Park in Ranchester, Wyoming just outside of Sheridan. It was a “local” park interfacing directly with the town, both businesses and residences. Since it had a swimming hole with swing ropes and all, it was also the hangout for the local teens in the early and late evening. We were one of two campers in the park, with a great deal of “pass-through” traffic.
The kids mostly used the day-use area for swimming, hanging out, and smoking e-cigarettes outside of their parents’ watchful eye. All was good and the park was actually very lovely. However, erring on the side of caution, we slept that night with our back closed up on the trailer/toy hauler.
The drive from Ranchester to Newcastle the next day was…….interesting. We took a slower route because it was “all dots” on the map indicating a scenic route. I suspect that the map maker must have indulged in a bit too much imbibing when making the map and misplaced the dots. There is little of scenic value along this route….interesting, perhaps, but not scenic.
First, there are oil pumping rigs along the route – sort of like driving through Bakersfield in past years. Didn’t expect to see those in Wyoming. Then, there was the open coal mine of The Black
Thunder Coal Mine. It is a surface coal mine located in the Powder River Basin, which contains one of the largest deposits of coal in the world. Black Thunder is the second most productive mine in the United States, providing the U.S. with eight percent of its coal supply. The mine produced 99.45 million tons of coal in 2015, a slight 
reduction from 2014. There were miles of rail oar cars already loaded, being loaded, or waiting to be loaded. Mountains of slag deposits from the coal pits on both the left and right as we drove through. 
All I could think about was the vast, long-lasting destruction of that area and its geology, biology, and general ecosystems; as well as the fact that while we criticize China for their coal use and production, here we are pumping out massive amounts of the same pollutant.
As we drove through, we talked about the long-standing conflict between environmental destruction, the production of jobs in a region where nothing else is available, and the fact that some of our industry is still very much dependent on coal. A conflict that is not easily resolved, at least in this day and age.
The approach to Newcastle was, for me, depressing. Not because I knew anything about the town or even understood the reality of what I saw. Rather, because I surmised and projected my own biases and what I interpreted as a “company town” — Tennessee Ernie Ford was ringing in my ears. Housing looked like it was “company housing” whether it was or not.
This was not my favorite part of our trip. I grew up in Nevada with its open gold and copper mines and I know the destruction caused by this type of mining and the negative environmental residue left when the mine dries up. I wanted to leave the area behind us quickly. However, we had reserved a motel room in Newcastle ahead of time (not realizing the environment or atmosphere of the town).
We planned to fill up with gas, do laundry, and prepare for our extended camping and visiting in Custer State Park. We pulled into the motel, which did not look or feel inviting, but which was relatively new. It, too, felt like a “company” hotel. Upon checking in, we discovered that everything we had requested and which was verified by staff on the phone (e.g., accessible room, pet friendly, room size, sleeping accommodations, etc.) did not exist. We made a quick decision to leave Newcastle (Why does the phrase “carrying coals to Newcastle” keep bouncing around in my head?); and headed for Custer.
We left in such a hurry that we did not get gas. Not good. We also did not stop for a needed bathroom break. Also, not good. Several miles outside of Newcastle, the yellow warning light on the gas gage flashed its ugly and worrisome glow; and our teeth were beginning to float. While flying down the highway, trying to appreciate what was actually nice scenery, Nancy scrambled to find us a motel and Fran figured out how many hills we could coast down to save gasoline.
Ahhh…coasting into Custer we immediately encountered a very welcome Sinclair Station. Gas first. Personal
relief next. The truck took 35 gallons of gas in a 36-gallon tank. Whew! Next on to Comfort Inn, which proved to be a haven and a refuge. Pizza for dinner, which was delivered an hour late because they got the wrong room and couldn’t figure out how to ask the desk where we were despite the facts that they had our name and cellphone number; and the pizza shop was about 500 feet from our door! However, pizza was good. Bed was great; a good night’s sleep; Nancy accomplished water aerobics in the pool; Fran caught up on the laundry; Paddington got in some rambunctious ball-playing on the grass he so dearly loves; and we were ready for the road again.
Off we went to our next camping adventure in South Dakota. This segment of our trip was to accomplish three main things: One, we were to experience the destination that prompted this trip in the first place (Mt. Rushmore). 
Two, we were to visit our friends from California who have a cabin nearby. And, three, we were to connect with a young relative of Nancy’s that we have not seen for several years, who was driving over from Denver to spend time with us in Rapid City, South Dakota, where she has friends. We pulled into our campground, Spokane Creek, and were unexpectedly delighted with our site and the overall property. We settled in for the next 4 days. Whew!!!!